Drill Installation Method. by the older brother » Mon Dec 10, 2007 4:17 pm. by Regan » Mon Dec 10, 2007 1:59 pm, Post A … I have just had in the last month or so a refin of a brand new body and a 66 body. Do you drill the 35mm cup holes before or after applying the finish? The majority of cabinet knobs are packaged with #8 machine screws, which measure 0.16 inch, or roughly 5/32 inch, in diameter. A couple were difficult to spot after a few coats so I marked them with nail, but not deep enough to go through the finish. I drill first. If you drill after, and the paint is cured. Use Naptha to wetsand, never water. Take the time before you apply any paint on your next project to fill all of the gaps, cracks, and nail holes. I drill first. For the final For concrete, I couldn't penetrate more than 3/4" into by the older brother » Sat Dec 01, 2007 4:12 pm, Post Attach the new handles with screws. Once you drill your first holes, then you can line up the template. Holes in wood trim are best filled with wood filler. Before putting your new handle in place, fill any holes left by old hardware with wood putty, and paint that area. I'd like to paint after assembly and before installing the cases to the wall, so if I drill after paint, access to the holes will be limited. The brand new one I located everything on the body and then used one of thise spring loaded punches that carpenters / metal workers use to mark a dent/very shallow hole where the screw holes will be. So gone are the daunting days of “what-if’ing” on myself… at least when it comes to repositioning furniture hardware and filling in holes! I actually left the filler in the holes a little low so I could see where they are. First order of business was off to the hardware store for some wood filler. This allows you to sand any tear out in the pocket hole area (it happens a lot) without messing up all the time you took to make it look nice. After experimenting with several different methods and products, this is how I currently fill old hardware holes for the best results: Fill all the old holes with wood filler, let dry and sand. Fortunately, filling in nail holes in trim is a simple process. Best to buy ready mixed and should cost you pennies EDIT Some fillers take only a short time to dry but would suggest at least 12 hours 24 better. Mark and pre-drill your holes carefully. The secret to filling in the hardware holes seamlessly is is to completely fill the hole with 2 or 3 applications of filler. Check your drill bit is'nt blunt as well. My dad was working on a Partscaster once and forgot to do that... the front of that guitar is now really ka-f**ked up. Someone knows where I can find the nearest woodchipper to throw my pieces of junk into? Forum Responses (Cabinetmaking Forum) From contributor M: After with a Blum Minipress. It's best to fill pround then sand down before papering , lining or painting. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link above to proceed. IMHO it will be cleaner if you drill the holes after paint. Obviously, plugging them is a large labor requirement. You really really really want to drill your new holes before you paint. This might be a speed and pressure problem. Before I had the Minipress I bored before finish using a drill press. Because wood filler can (and does) shrink as it dries, apply a second coat of wood filler, if … Because I want the pulls centered in the drawers and the holes are 1/2″ lower than center, I made sure to mark “TOP” on each drawer as a future, quick look reference. Nail holes in exterior surfaces, just as with cracks or gaps, can be dealt with using a good caulking. If you’re not sure about the color of Fil-Stik to use, we would recommend getting 2 or more color options to test. Repeat the process of applying a second coating and sanding it after. January 19, 2011, KnowledgeBase: Cabinetmaking: Cabinet Door Construction. Even though my project was successful, several things went wrong. Orange looking oak cabinets, no hardware, dark paint, white sink, shiny faucet… it was all bad. I use brad point bits for drilling holes. Or I just used the Salice version of Inserta with and without soft close on my last two kitchens. Even I remember the pros telling me on the reranch site to always test fit everything before painting. I've heard the Blum works a lot better. The holes will be fine. Holes If the shell needs any holes drilling (for mirrors, wings, antenna tube, etc), carefully drill those now, using a block of wood to support the body. Before the deglosser evaporates, quickly wipe away the residue with another clean, deglosser-dampened rag. Sure you can use wood filler to fill the old holes and then drill new ones exactly where you want them. I remember the pros telling me on the reranch site to always test fit everything before painting. So now I had to fill in the old cabinet holes and drill new ones to match the holes on the other doors. If you mess up, you can fill them in The screw should fit through the hole without binding. by sookwinder » Sat Dec 01, 2007 7:09 pm, Post Doesn't make sense to me (and my operation) to put all the doors on the Minipress to bore, then finish, then back to the Minipress to press in hinges. After my kitchen was featured in Better Homes & Gardens, there were a few new people who came over and asked how I covered the old hardware holes that were in the center of my cabinets. 2006 If you want to be absolutely sure of no paint on the inside of the tube, you have two choices: drill the holes after painting or drill the holes and plug them before painting. Typically, I have always started with this process, then added ornamental carvings/burnings, then done my routering, and finally, my finishing stain/varnish. Question Forum Responses The pegboard and the wood backer protect the surface. Use Naptha to wetsand, never water. Using a drill, sockets are made in the concrete where the posts can be securely cemented. If you drill before, and don't load up the paint, the holes should remain relatively clean. On Monday, it was how to restore your hardware in five minutes and today its how to cover old hardware holes. It also doesn't matter that much (with this setup) if you drill before or after finishing. This makes sure that the clear does not chip or crack from the screw threads lifting the finish. I know my limitations and I am okay with that. a good brad point bit should give a very clean hole. Hold a rag underneath to catch drips. I lightly filled all my holes on my Jag on purpose before I refinished it. 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